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Fashion Review: In London, Fantasy Meets Obsession

posted onFebruary 21, 2017

Article snippet: LONDON — Outside the Houses of Parliament on Monday, protesters gathered, placards raised, to protest against the possibility of a formal state visit by President Trump, while inside, lawmakers debated its pros and cons. But the chauffeured cars carrying their fashion week passengers all over London just sped by. When times seem black and conditions grim, sometimes it feels safest to retreat into fantasy. That, in miniature, was the journey Mary Katrantzou made. She’d begun her fall collection looking at the tough, determined dames of 1940s film noir — femme fatales who lent their small-waisted silhouettes to the collection — but finished it with Disney’s 1940 classic “Fantasia”: same period, different outlook, a switch flipped from black-and-white to Technicolor. Ms. Katrantzou worked with Disney to borrow motifs from the film, poring over stills until she found what suited her honeyed world. A coquettish “centaurette,” her tail braided by cherubs, was printed on a double-breasted velvet suit, piling richness on richness. It didn’t let up. Though there were wonders throughout — layers of lace, tulle, beading and gems — they threatened to overwhelm wearer and spectator alike. The mix worked best when Ms. Katrantzou let her wild creations breathe a bit, as when a simple sweater set off the wild splendor of a bead-fringed “Fantasia”-floral skirt. Richness reigned on Erdem Moralioglu’s runway, too, which married the sumptuousness of Ottoman dress, its rich fabrics a... Link to the full article to read more

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